You may know this brand for its perfume rather than clothing. Issey Miyake has a reputation for combining technology with craftsmanship that is apparent in the iconic, conical, glass and stainless steel perfume bottles.
Miyake has a long career in fashion spanning many decades. A survivor of the Hiroshima atomic bomb now aged 70 he is quite remarkable. He worked closely with designers, Tokujin Yoshioka Inc. to create his first UK flagship store on Brook Street in London and it is as fresh as a spring lamb. The 5,000 sq ft homage au Miyake lying in fashionable Mayfair is top end. But, shouldn’t every store aspire to inspire its customer, to be the place where dreams come true? Well this is it. I might not be able to afford a single item in this store, but I am still able to appreciate this iconic emporium. The clothes are nothing less than remarkable in design and material. Bags, belts and accessories are also miniature works of art.
The crisp colours and angular display units and props combine to create a stunning environment. The fully glazed shopfront allows uninterrupted views into this calm yet vibrant store. Shopfittings are kept to a minimum. Even the clothes rails, which follow the store’s perimeter walls, appear to be sunken into the walls – rails, fixtures and hangers are hidden from the eye. This helps instil the effect of a fluid, streamlined store where the clothes are the stars that are allowed to shine brightly. Another surprising delight is the vivid blue highlights. The clothes leap out from the intense backdrop. So often high fashion is understated and muted, but this colour choice is bold and edgy as the creator intended. The vivid blue sets the store alight and sets it apart from its peers, providing a stark contrast to an otherwise monotone interior.
As you would expect, this flagship is spacious and the merchandising is minimal. The presence of black anodised ‘in-house’ designed display tables are as much a part of the overall ambience as the items on sale. Considering their size, the tables display very few items – three tops are artfully arranged, curled around having the appearance of new buds uncurling in May. Light features are equally fabulous. All designed ‘in-house’, they take on an ethereal quality, somewhere in between nature and design as they emit a diffused, warm glow into the harsh and contrasting space. Stunning concrete pillars, which stand proud within this delectable interior, create yet another remarkable statement. Rather than try to conceal them, the designer has applied plaster roughly and left them unfinished. They are distinctive, yet at the same time at odds with the immaculately orderly store – a direct reference to Miyake himself and his eccentric label. As in so many stores nowadays the staircase is a feature in itself and this store does not disappoint; the formidable, concrete, steel and glass structure seems to literally drop away through a cavernous hole. Functional in form, yet without doubt considered and intentional; the staircase is quite magnificent in its descent.
On the lower ground floor, in addition to the discreet, perimeter clothes rails, further hanging rails have been fashioned between the statement pillars. Very basic, black anodised rods have been secured between pillars with a vivid blue base. There is a large blue pouffe which complements the items on display in its irregular design and finally a few simple anodised black display units showcase some very exclusive product. This is a store for the discerning customer but one which SDEA thoroughly recommends – it is a great store.
Images courtesy of Anthony Crolla
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